Semillon – a sleeping beauty
Semillon has long been part of the Cape scene; in the 19th century it is reported to have accounted for 93% of all vines grown. Over the years its popularity diminished and, by the 1980s, in the rush to plant the much better known classic varieties, it represented less than 1% of the area under vine.
Semillon’s renaissance, which began towards the end of the 20th century, has been built more around its partnership in blends than as a varietal wine, where it has generally failed to attract winelovers; Boekenhoutskloof and Steenberg are notable exceptions.
Leaving aside blends with Semillon in easier-drinking style, the first serious, age-worthy Semillon-Sauvignon blend was Charles Back’s barrel-fermented 1987 Fairview Charles Gerard Reserve. This turned out to be a short-lived venture as the vineyard was old, virused and soon uprooted.
Some 10 years later, Andre van Rensburg, then winemaker at Stellenzicht, played around blending Sauvignon with Semillon and Chenin but wasn’t achieving the longevity he was looking for.
The story of flagship white Bordeaux-style blends on a wider scale begins in 2001 when, four years after his move to Vergelegen, Van Rensburg produced his first flagship white (that year Sauvignon dominated), now known as Vergelegen GVB; an 11-year vertical tasting last year proved longevity as one of its attractions.
Three years’ later in 2004, Duncan Savage at Cape Point Vineyards produced the first Isliedh, then 100% Sauvignon but subsequently a Sauvignon-Semillon blend.
Across the mountain, in the Constantia valley, Steenberg’s maiden Magna Carta, also from Sauvignon and Semillon, followed with the 2007, then made by current GM, John Loubser and subsequently by JD Pretorius. (A Catharina white based on the Sauvignon-Semillon blend had been made early in the century but was discontinued).
As flagships, just some of those produced in South Africa, each of the above wines commands a high price, so they need to be something special. What is it that Semillon brings to the blend which lifts them to such level? I asked each of these winemakers for their views.
One point all three agree on is that Ssemillon adds weight and mouthfeel to counteract Sauvignon’s austerity. Savage says “Isliedh is built on our most mineral and austere Sauvignon vineyard; it would need ageing for a few years before being drinkable if I didn’t add around 20% to 30% Semillon to round off the acidity.” He also points out that even the Sauvignon-driven wines in the CPV range include some Ssemillon to round off the wine; how much depends on soil profiles in the Sauvignon vineyards. This is not an uncommon practice generally among the Cape’s Sauvignon producers
Ageability is front of Vvan Rensburg’s mind: “I’m always looking for 10 years, which Semillon gives; 60% is almost the minimum in my blend.” It is fair to say that even the Vergelegen GVB is still climbing the quality ladder; as the vines mature, so, it seems the wine is taking longer to develop.
Dubbing Semillon ‘the sleeping beauty’ is no fanciful description: Loubser and Pretorius admit they’re puzzled by the seeming oxymoron of Semillon having both a low pH and relatively low acid. “This is a great bonus, as it will greatly improve the longevity of the wine. It’s partly why so many Semillons are seen as dull and boring dry whites when they’re young; wines with a low pH need at least two or three years to develop.”
Oaking too plays a role in the wine’s evolution and structure. For Van Rensburg, the 225-litre Bordeaux barrique is a must for Semillon: “The wine is tighter, less oxidative and perfectly suited to the variety.” Loubser and Pretorius agree: “Semillon is well suited to oaking as it has enough richness to stand up to the oak; the resulting wine is generally rich, complex and has great structure. This is its greatest contribution to a blend.”
As one might expect from producers of this calibre, no detail is left to chance. Savage’s Reserve Sauvignon Blanc spends longer in barrel (14-15 months) to round it out, as less Semillon is included (no more than 15%) to ensure it is entitled to the varietal label. Isliedh, on the other hand, spends a maximum of a year in oak thanks to the higher percentage of Semillon, between 20% and 30%.
But it’s not only the white Bordeaux-style producers who appreciate Semillon; Ian Naudé finds it brings ‘middle palate’ and ‘Old World’ classiness to his Adoro Naudé White, a roughly equal blend of Chenin, Sauvignon and Semillon.
Even if this classic variety struggles to make an impression on its own, as part of a blend it plays an important role in the sort of wines receiving high praise from international and local wine writers and commentators. And it’s still early days; as the vines mature and winemakers find out what works best, even better, more complex wines may be anticipated.
– Angela Lloyd